裁剪前要先根據(jù)樣板繪制出排料圖,“完整、合理、節(jié)約”是排料的基本原則。在裁剪工序中主要工藝要求如下:
Before cutting, the layout of the material should be drawn according to the sample. "Complete, reasonable and economical" is the basic principle of discharge. In the cutting process, the main process requirements are as follows:
1、拖料時(shí)點(diǎn)清數(shù)量,注意避開疵點(diǎn)。
1, when the number of straight pull material, avoid the defects.
2、對(duì)于不同批染色或砂洗的面料要分批裁剪,防止同件服裝上出現(xiàn)色差現(xiàn)象。對(duì)于一匹面料中存在色差現(xiàn)象的要進(jìn)行色差排料。
2, for different batch or sand washing fabrics to be cut in batch to prevent the appearance of chromatic aberration on the same garment. Color difference is necessary for a fabric with chromatic aberration.
3、排料時(shí)注意面料的絲綹順直以及衣片的絲縷方向是否符合工藝要求,對(duì)于起絨面料(例如絲絨、天鵝絨、燈芯絨等)不可倒順排料,否則會(huì)影響服裝顏色的深淺。
3, pay attention to the material discharging grain straight and pieces of silk thread direction meets the process requirements for fleece fabric (such as velvet, velvet, corduroy, etc.) can not reverse the discharge, otherwise it will affect the depth of color clothing.
4、對(duì)于條格紋的面料,拖料時(shí)要注意各層中條格對(duì)準(zhǔn)并定位,以保證服裝上條格的連貫和對(duì)稱。
4. For the striped fabric, attention should be paid to the alignment and positioning of the lattices in each layer in order to ensure the continuity and symmetry of the stripes on the garment.
5、裁剪要求下刀準(zhǔn)確,線條順直流暢。鋪型不得過(guò)厚,面料上下層不偏刀。
5, cutting requires the accuracy of the knife, line smooth and smooth. The shape must not be too thick, and the lower layer of the fabric is unbiased.
6、根據(jù)樣板對(duì)位記號(hào)剪切刀口。
6, cut the knife edge according to the sample counter mark.
7、采用錐孔標(biāo)記時(shí)應(yīng)注意不要影響成衣的外觀。裁剪后要進(jìn)行清點(diǎn)數(shù)量和驗(yàn)片工作,并根據(jù)服裝規(guī)格分堆捆扎,附上票簽注明款號(hào)、部位、規(guī)格等。
7, the mark taper should pay attention not to affect the appearance of clothing. After cutting to count the number and inspection work, and according to the clothing specifications pack, attached to ticket number, location, and other specifications indicate.
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