服裝就如同一種符號,古代社會中服裝有嚴(yán)格的區(qū)分,不同的服飾代表著一個人屬于不同的社會階層,這就是“禮”的表現(xiàn)。《禮記》中對衣著等級作為了明文規(guī)定:“天子龍袞,諸候如黼,大夫黼,士玄衣裳,天子之冕,朱綠藻,十有二旒,諸候九,上大夫七、下大夫五,士三,以此人為責(zé)也。”《周禮》中記載:“享先王則袞冕,表明祭禮,大禮時,帝王百官皆穿禮服。”春秋戰(zhàn)國時期的諸子百家對服裝的“禮”性功能亦有精辟見解。如儒家提倡“憲章文武”約之以禮,這種觀點(diǎn)的提出是其與其封建等級制度的捍衛(wèi)者的形象密不可分的。
Clothing is like a symbol. In ancient society, clothing has strict distinction. Different costumes represent a person belonging to different social strata. This is the expression of "ritual". "The book of Rites" in the clothing grade as expressly stipulated: "the Emperor Dragon card such as Dagon, embroidery, the embroidery, Shi Xuan clothes, the crown of emperor Zhu Lvzao, ten, two card nine, seven pennant, doctor, doctor five, + three, who is also responsible for." "Zhou" records: "enjoy the first King Crown that ritual, Dagon, gift, Regal is wearing the dress." The spring and Autumn period of clothing "rite" of all classes of authors also provide insights into the function of. As the Confucian idea of "charter Wenwu" about etiquette, this view is put forward and the defenders of the feudal hierarchy of the image are inseparable.
這種“禮”的功能還表現(xiàn)在服裝的色彩上,如孔子曾宣稱“惡紫之奪朱也”(《論語陽貨》)因為朱是正色,紫是間色,他要人為地給正色和間色定各位,別尊卑,以鞏固等級制度,歷史上“白衣”、“苞頭”、“皂隸”、“緋紫”、“黃袍”、“烏紗帽”、“紅頂子”等等都是在一定時期內(nèi),某種顏色附麗于某種服飾而獲得了代表某種地位和身份的例子。在每個朝代幾乎都有過對服飾顏色的相關(guān)規(guī)定。
The function of "courtesy" is also reflected in the color of clothes, such as Confucius claimed "evil purple spoils Zhu also" ("Confucian Analects") because the ink is the color, color is purple, he will artificially and you don't set the color line, and, in order to consolidate the caste system, the history of "white clothing", "head bud", "zaoli", "Fei Zi", "yellow", "official", "red top" and so on are all in a certain period of time, a certain color belongs to some costumes and a representative kind of position and identity examples. In every dynasty, there are almost any rules about the color of the dress.
例如:《歷代服飾》記載:秦漢巾幘色“庶民為黑、車夫為紅,喪服為白,轎夫為黃,廚人為綠,官奴、農(nóng)人為青“。唐以官服色視階官之品。”“舉子麻之通刺,稱鄉(xiāng)貢。”唐貞觀四年和上元元年曾兩次下詔頒布服飾顏色和佩帶的規(guī)定。在清朝,官服除以蟒數(shù)區(qū)分官位以外,對于黃色亦有禁例。如皇太子用杏黃色,皇子用金黃色,而下屬各王等官職不經(jīng)賞賜是絕不能服黃的。
For example: "China ancient costumes" records: Qin towel Ze color "for the crime of the black, red, black white, the yellow, the kitchen human green, the official slave, the farmers for green". Tang in robes color order officer of the goods." "The thorns of lifting the son of the son, which is called the tribute of the township." In the first year of the four year and the lantern was two times under an edict promulgated the provisions of clothing colors and worn. In the Qing Dynasty, divided by the number of official robes Python distinguish except for yellow also prohibitions. For example, the emperor used the apricot yellow, the emperor used the golden yellow, and the subordinate kings and other official posts would not be able to accept the yellow.
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